tailoring?

What does tailoring mean to me? And does a jacket without a collar and lapel constitute a tailored jacket?

At the beginning of this year when I knew that our 2^nd semester work involved tailoring, I was so excited yet nervous about the thought.

To be honest before deconstructing the tailored jacket for our tech report I had this vision that tailored jackets consisted to be plain and boring featuring general elements like patch pocket, vents, a lapel with a notched collar. This is evident from my drawings from the earlier exercises (where we used the jet pocket etc) however my perception has dramatically changed within weeks.
I don’t think this “silhouette” of a men’s tailored jacket (the jacket I used for my tech report) describes what tailoring is. I mean yes it is tailoring but it is the basics of tailoring. I think tailoring can be explored to a totally new level. The creative side that discards this simplistic tradition men silhouette yet still retains a sharp and structured look.

From the tech report I have learnt about the internal structure and its construction, and I think that this is one of the main components that portrays tailoring. It is about the layering of canvas and wadding to build up a firm structure that will not collapse on the wearer’s body. This skill in placing the canvas or shoulder pad in the right position of the shoulder and sleeve can dramatically alter the overall appearance. Precision and persistence is needed to achieve the desired result. (I can now say I am learning and accepting how to be patient and persistent with toiling the pleats because it is such a repetitive process and defiantly time consuming.

This semester I really wanted to push myself, through technique and through the creative. Like Mick wrote, “is the technical a result of the creative, or does the creative result in the technical? (Something along these lines)
I wanted these two to be combined in the jacket but still have the “tailored” look!

I wanted my jacket to be interesting and definitely turn ones head. Already in toiling of the hood this has drawn peoples attention to the detailing of pleats but I feel that they may be turning their head as to saying how is this jacket a form of tailoring.

To me tailoring is about a sharpness of structure, which will be present in my design.

It is about ‘bespoke’ to fit perfectly to the wearers measurement (obviously we are not designing for a person) however I want to make the jacket fitted, with darts or still keep the shape to reveal the female form.
I think tailoring is about being creative but the result must be neat. I have taken this creative side through to the repetition of pleating. The pleats will be very structural, another element that I associate tailoring with. I believe the differences to a hooded jumper or jacket is distinguished between the materials obviously- tailored jacket lined and no internal seams are visible, however it is also about the sharpness of lines.

My jacket features a hood that replaces typical items like a notched or shawl collar, I don’t dislike these elements the hood just came about through the designing process and influence of armored helmets for protection. I started to frame the neck with the pleats and then it altered through toiling to continue the pleats through to the top of the head to look more like a helmet. This hood is very different to the softness of a normal hood on a jumper; this structural configuration is what gives it a “tailored” characteristic.

I am definitely anxious to see how the panel at assessment will interpret my designs.

I have considered making the hood removable to make the jacket more for a mass market, it could attach by press studs onto or either under the neckline of the jacket, however I don’t know if the hood will then be able to stand up without being supported by the seams.
I guess I will find this out through toiling.

pleated hood toile

underway

ok so we are now underway with toiling. first class this week i decided to start with the hood. it seemed very simple but there was much work needed to just draft the hood. i have now finished the patterns for the hood and ready to sew it up next class. hopefully it turns out how i expect it!

prior to my theme this was a toile we did in the early weeks of semester. the toile had to include a our design of a shawl collar, raglan sleeves, back vent and double breasted here are photos of the jacket. i wasn't happy with how it first turned out so i altered it by slashing and opening sections.

Form of protection?

Form of protection?

The construction of these different materials cover the body, the balloons are weaved in a arranged order that I believe mimics the look of a protective upper body garment as it hides and encloses our important organs from the outside world.

From these images I have questioned Does the materials have to be protective? Or can I create a jacket that has the function of only looking protective through construction, as it obviously won’t be able to fully protect the wearer because we are required to use the wool. (Wool blend) sample for our jacket.

What other materials can I use to interpret this? That still looks tailored, crisp and clean? Yet has the looks of being protective.

AnOther Man: Hedi and Herzog
http://ianterrell.blogspot.com/2009/03/another-man-hedi-and-herzog.html

Viewed 6^th sep 09

Taking these functions that are needed for the person to participate in that activity will have to be present in the jacket.

The two primary tensions are movement and protection

Some elements that will be functional and other parts that may look functional but are not, they are only there to PHYSICALLY PROTECT
the wearer

What are the functional aspects of the jacket?
As obviously the main function is to protect the wearer. E.g. the shell will cover the whole chest, front back and venturing into the face.
One of the most important is an opening. Getting into the jacket and out of the jacket easily.
Creating minimal bulk, because I want to make the garment rather 3d with padding and building up areas I will have to do a bit of research into the materials I will use things such as, piping/tubing. Wadding or foam. Canvas plates or sourcing a contrast bulky fabric that will go with the unfortunately supplied wool.

I am looking into ways that the body can act as a defense mechanism, like animals when that get defensive they have a tendency to flare out! To unleash their weapons of self-destruction.
I am thinking of ways in which these protective parts are hidden and you pull a cord and wella the jacket transforms into a protective state. If I want to incorporate this I really need to think and work out how it will come out (because its not as easy as pulling a cord and there you go, need to consider how this will happen and where will it be stored e.g. In a jet pocket? Or a flap?

What are the nonfunctional aspects of the jacket?
So the other non-functional parts of the jacket will be primarily for looks to achieve the desired outcome of “protection”

This will be just areas built up. On the shoulders and perhaps the sleeves and back?
Other things that come to mind that may be non functional I don’t know still trying to pluck ideas to paper.

I needed to jot down the areas and parts of the jacket I want to focus on. So here is a brainstorm.
Because I have so many things running through my head, I think the best way in terms of designing this jacket will be designing in sections first so like collar, back, sleeves, shoulders, etc. (Mick is that an ok way?)
Then start to pull bits and pieces and see what works and what doesn’t (visually on paper)

I’m kind of scared because its week 7 when we get back and we have to have a complete design. I’m still confused if were allowed to experiment with our toiles so that the design we put to paper now can alter as we go along?
(Also Mick are we allowed to on the fist class back just experiment with shapes and testing wadding foam etc? or do we have to start drafting the design?)