These images are from week 4’s 3d class.
Setting a sleeve into our shawl collar toile. (Toile with all the pockets).
These images indicate how much work is involved within the internal structure. It includes the shoulder pad and shoulder/sleeve roll and the breast/chest plate where we used a piece of pink fused calico to imitate the canvas.

In a structured jacket there will be up to 4 layers or even more, this can be made from a canvas or a haircloth.Like the other studio classes we didn't use the machine to ease the sleeve into the armhole, we did the “proper” “time consuming way” which “probably” gave are “better result” this was done by easing in the sleeve with pins, the pins were placed 1cm on the seam line. (If it was greater than 1cm there was less ease, which is wrong, but it made it easier, this is what I did wrong and at the beginning I thought it was relatively easy. I then had to redo the pins making sure it was spot on 1cm and making sure the notches matched and eased in what was needed. A running stitch was used and here we had to make sure no tucks appeared. It wasn’t too bad after all and I didn’t have any major puckers/tucks.

On the stand we positioned the shoulder pad into place, trimming the edges of the padding and tacked it into place, then the sleeve/shoulder roll was attached, this was done was by machine and slightly easing the felt in.
The last touches were the herringbone stitch, which was used to secure the shoulder pad in place.

I have never used a shoulder pad and roll to build up parts of a jacket to make it structural. I really enjoyed doing this exercise, because it was new but the craft that was involved, working with your hands and using hand stitches to secure these components was very interesting.

Tuesdays week 5 lecture that Ricarda took was about “CRAFT”
craft |kraft|

noun

1 an activity involving skill in making things by hand : the craft of bookbinding | pewter craft.

• ( crafts) work or objects made by hand : the shop sells local crafts | [as adj. ] ( craft) a craft fair.

• a skilled activity or profession : the historian's craft.

• skill in carrying out one's work : a player with plenty of craft.

• skill used in deceiving others : her cousin was not her equal in guile and evasive craft.

• the members of a skilled profession.

• ( the Craft) the brotherhood of Freemasons.

2 ( pl. same) a boat or ship : sailing craft.

• an airplane or spaceship.

what I consider the connotation of craft is similar to 1. an activity involving skill in making things by hand and that it involves a high level of

patience, it may be time consuming but it is produced by the hand, a natural form of production.

Where as something produced by machine can still give the same result that still may create that wow factor however knowing that its creator

has spent quality time into producing that art form gives it a whole different approach.
This is similar to what I wrote in my conclusion to my technical report. Here is a paragraph from my conclusion.

Machines can imitate anything in today’s society but is the quality comparable to that done by traditional hand methods?

If I were to categorise this garment I would say that it is average when being compared to hand tailored jacket like this image, as the amount of hand stitching involved in preparation and attachment of the canvas and other details is time consuming.

Machines can imitate anything in today’s society but is the quality comparable to that done by traditional hand methods?

This of course is what makes hand tailored jackets so expensive. The labour involved is truly monumental.

Another question that was brought up in the lecture was does craft have to be done to perfection or can it have a raw aspect about it?
no I don’t think craft has to be neat nor does it have to be messy, this depends on the desired outcome.

The aspect of craft that I have been looking at relates back to week 4’s shoulder pad exercise. Building up this structure by using layers of wadding to create weightless bulk and shoulder pads to create height.